Citrus Salmon Crudo with Capers, Cucumber & Spring Onions.
A super simple way to serve salmon this summer as a show-stopping starter.
This month on ingredient we’re focusing on Spring Onions: the light, fresh spring salad allium that's so much more than just a garnish.
You can already find the recipe for my Barbecued Continental Salad Onions with Charred Romesco Sauce here, and I’ve got a simple weeknight spring onion-centric supper for you all coming soon!
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I know we’ve only had a few warm days so far, but now we’ve had an entire weekend where it was warm enough to at least sit out with a drink or two at lunchtime, I’ve started to think about summer eating, and summer entertaining.
When I have people over, it is not often I opt for a starter: usually some sort of nibble or dip we can all graze on whilst I’m finishing up the food will suffice (last year I was all about this Courgette, Garlic & Yogurt Dip, though my Rosemary Parmesan Shortbread and my mother’s Cheese Straws are forever favourites!) but when I do serve a starter to smaller groups I want it to be something quick, simple and with elements that are just calling out to be made ahead.
Some sort of raw fish presented colourfully with a range of different flavours and textures is an old fall back of mine. It seems like you’ve done something impressive, fancy and rather chef-like, but instead it’s just an exercise in chopping, mixing and sourcing excellent ingredients.
Usually I opt for local scallops from my fishmonger down on the seafront (see my colourful Scallop and Radish Crudo and my Scallop and Cucumber Tartare with Pickled Rhubarb) but the fact I no longer have a go-to sushi place because it was reprimanded by the local council health department (words that still terrify me to write as I’ve eaten there quite recently!) I was craving salmon.
Whilst you don’t have to be as careful about sourcing salmon to eat raw as you would tuna, always buy the best quality and freshest fish you can and check with your fishmonger that it is either sushi grade or at least safe to eat raw. Today I’m using salmon belly from The Fish Society who I use a fair bit to order fish from for work when I client requests a recipe made with something I struggle to source locally, and I’m very happy with the quality: all of their fish arrives already frozen so especially if you’re ordering fish for sushi, sashimi or the like you don’t have to worry about having to use it the moment it arrives (as with most sites of this ilk, they offer a use this link and get both you and me £10 off our next orders bonus if you want to give them a go!) I’ve not ordered fish from there before, but I know Fine Food Specialist also have a great selection.
So, once you’ve sourced your fish, you need to choose your citrus. You want lemon as this is an Italian-style crudo with extra virgin olive oil (your best smooth one here, nothing too peppery) and the crudo in the pictures has such a pretty colour as I’ve still got blush oranges kicking about: but regular orange will do too as it’s there for sweetness more than anything else.
Cucumbers are there for freshness and crunch, and little, baby capers add another layer of saltiness alongside flaky Maldon sea salt so you don’t overwhelm the fish with the latter.
But, as promised, the spring onions are the star of the show. Usually in crudo recipes you’ll see finely chopped shallot, a bit like in a mignonette but as it’s spring and I’m after colour and freshness we’re using spring onions instead. Rather than soaking them in the dressing to lose their bite we’re leaning into their slightly astringent oniony-ness, making them the perfect partner for fatty salmon whose flesh is able to stand up to them a bit better.
Citrus Salmon Crudo with Capers, Cucumber & Spring Onions
Serves: 2 (to scale), Preparation time: 10 minutes
Chop everything ahead if you wish, and mix the dressing, but leave slicing the salmon to the last minute. Use the sharpest knife you have, wiping it on a piece of kitchen paper between slices for the cleanest cut, slicing on the diagonal. But don’t fuss about it too much: as you can see from the pictures, I don’t have a future as a sashimi chef, but the finished crudo still looks (and more importantly tastes!) beautiful on the plate.